![]() ![]() Buying a small sample of stain and testing it on your deck is a good idea before you purchase it by the gallon. It should look almost new after these treatments. To take out scratches, open a walnut and rub the meat on your furniture on any dings you find. Then make an oil and vinegar mix of 3 parts oil to 1 part vinegar and rub it on your furniture. Make sure to confirm how the stain will look on your wood species before you commit to a large quantity. Let the cleaner sit on your furniture for 10-15 minutes before removing. ![]() You may have to look beyond the big box home improvement center and go to a professional paint store to find this product, but it will be worth the effort and expense.Īlso remember that the actual color of the stain, once applied, may differ from the samples or brochure. ![]() Most people find the best results with a quality oil-based, penetrating, exterior semi-transparent stain. The easy cleanup offered by water-based stains may be attractive, but most experts agree that water-based exterior stains do not last as long as oil-based products and do not soak into the wood fibers as thoroughly. There are also water-based and oil-based varieties. However, these provide less UV (sunlight) protection than pigmented deck stains.Īmong the products that stain, you will find semi-transparent stains that allow the wood grain to be visible through the stain as well as opaque stains that color the wood, more like a coat of paint, hiding all wood grain. There are also simple clear sealers that do nothing more than penetrate and seal the wood without changing the color. While once it was common to first stain wood then apply some kind of clear surface sealer over it, today's products are generally one-step applications-penetrating stains that both color the wood and soak in to protect it. If it rains in the meantime, simply let the deck dry out completely before refinishing you don't need to sand again. Don't wash the deck again, as this will raise the wood grain and roughen the surfaces you just sanded. Vacuum all surfaces thoroughly after sanding. Use 60- or 80-grit sandpaper on the main deck boards, and use 80- or 100-grit on the handrails. Sanding with a paper that is too coarse can damage the wood, especially with softer woods such as cedar. I am a wood restoration contractor in Jacksonville, FL. and I use an estimating software for my business which outputs in MS Word format. The program is a little dated, but it suits my purposes just fine. Sandpaper that is too fine will leave the wood pores packed with dust that will prevent the stain from soaking in. I was turned on to open office by a friend about six months ago, and I really like it, but I'm just learning it. Sanding a deck is easiest with a random orbital sander, but the correct sandpaper grit is essential to good results. Smooth handrails are important for preventing splinters. If the main deck surface is in relatively good condition, you may choose to sand only the handrails and perhaps do some spot-sanding in damaged or discolored areas. Sanding a deck before refinishing is recommended if the boards are rough and/or badly sun-damaged.
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